Our first stop in the north was Hoi An. We took an all night train to get there which was quite a restless experience. We opted for one of the cheaper options which meant sitting in an upright seat in a lit train cabin. We were woken up multiple times by train conductors yelling stops or by older women trying to sell us food throughout the night. Enventually though, we arrived in Hoi An and took a cab to our hostel. We stayed at the “Hoi An Lifestyle Homestay” located a 3 minute bike ride from old town Hoi An. Hoi An is a well kept old-style city that is exemplary of the traditional trading ports that were once bustling in the 15th-19th centuries. At one point Hoi An was considered the best trading port in all of SEA, most notably for it’s ceramics.



While we were in Hoi An we took advantage of the free bicycle rental provided by our homestay, cruised around and ate a lot of good food. Hoi An is also famous for their custom textiles and silk products so naturally, Matthew purchased two custom suits. He had zero intention of buying suits but we were approached on the sidewalk by a nice English speaking woman who convinced us to go check out her family’s custom fabric store. After much humming and hawing Matt designed two suits (with my help of course) – one navy and one maroon. Also while in Hoi An we went to a coffee roastery .

We spent a total of two nights in Hoi An before catching a bus to head farther North. We had heard really good things about Ninh Binh so we decided to split up our journey and spent a few days there. What we didn’t know but would later realize is that Tam Coc, the neighbouring city of Ninh Binh, was where all the sights were. So, after a 14 hour bus, we were dropped off in the middle of the city of Ninh Binh at 3:30 in the morning. The bus was supposed to arrive at 5:00 AM, but lucky us we arrived early!
So, sleepy-eyed Ky and Matt sat down on the curb to assess their options. We googled a couple of 24-hour hostels and tried walking to them, but they were all locked up and closed for the night. So much for 24 hours. We woke up one hotel owner by ringing the doorbell but he told us he was full. So we sat down again.

By this time it was around 4:30. After some quick researching, we discovered that we actually wanted to be in Tam Coc, and that’s where all the fun outdoor activities could be found. We looked on booking.com for some cheap accommodations, booked one, and started walking. Tam Coc was about 7km away – only about a 15 minute cab ride, but we had time to kill so we started walking the 2 hour journey.
We walked along the canal in Ninh Binh, and we were not alone! There was a good number of locals out running and getting their exercise in before sunlight. Everyone was very friendly and we shared hellos with most people. We took a couple breaks along the way, but before we knew it the limestone cliffs began peaking out and we knew we were close! About 1.5km away, it started to rain on us – of course, the perfect ending to our mid-night adventure. But there was no heavy downpour, and we made it to our guest house still pretty dry.



To our delight, we were greeted by some furry friends upon our arrival to ‘Tuyet’s Homestay’ plus our room was ready! We couldn’t have asked for a better greeting.


After a quick power nap we took bicycles to check out a local pagoda that was built into the side of the mountain.






The next day, our host recommended we check out a boat tour down the Trang An River. We took their suggestion and went on an amazing 3.5hr boat trip winding through elaborate cave systems while dodging swooping bats!










After the tour ended we raced to Mua Cave Lookout to catch the sunset over Tam Coc. Websites online suggested allocating at least 15 minutes to get to the top of the lookout. Since we were racing to get to the top in time for the sunset we ended up completing the 500-step climb in just 6.5 minutes. Man we were sweaty! It was worth it though, the sunset was mesmerizing.







After 2 nights and 2 full days in Tam Coc, our next destination was Cat Ba Island. Cat Ba Island is located in Ha Long Bay and is one of the only habitable islands in the area. Cat Ba Island is known for its rugged and dramatic limestone mountain faces, sandy beaches and unreal rock climbing. We were able to book a bus through our homestay that would take us directly to Cat Ba.

The bus ended up driving directly on to a large barge that carried over other cars and motorbikes. The trip on the barge took under an hour, and we were able to get off the bus to take in the sights. The bus then delivered us directly to our hostel – ah, it was fantastic to not be in Cambodia anymore and have have some trustworthy transportation! The temperature was dramatically different from Tam Coc – it was actually a bit chilly! Temperature during the day was around 15*C, and locals were dressed in parkas and pants. We certainly stuck out as tourists in our sleeveless shirts and shorts. It was late afternoon, so we dropped off our bags and went exploring. We walked about 20 minutes to find the beach, and man was it ever scenic. Check out the pictures below!



The next day, we had booked a 4-hour half day of rock climbing with Cat Ba Rock Climbing. All gear included and a guide for ~$50 Canadian, not too shabby! Our friends Erin and Josh had recommended this company, as they had spent last years Christmas on Cat Ba Island and spent some time climbing. We left around 10am, a group of 6. 2 young guys from Israel, one guide from Venezuela, and another guide from Vietnam. We were heading to an area called the Hidden Valley. However, this area and the pathway to it are currently owned by the Vietnam Army, and Cat Ba Climbing pays them for access to the area. So we arrived at the pathway, but there was a holdup – the army was performing target practice. So there we stood at the edge of a field, with rifles blasting every 20 seconds, trying to make small talk among ourselves. Lukily the 2 Israeli guys were extremely friendly and engaging.
Amit and Tom, our 2 new friends from Israel, had some interesting stories to tell us about their experiences growing up in Israel. All citizens, upon graduating high school, are immediately expected to serve 2 and 3/4 years in the army. They are paid and can learn skills, but apparently it is not thought highly of among the citizens. Amit was put into piloting/airplane engineering and Tom entered into computer programming. They had both just recently finished their time and immediately left to travel.
Eventually there was a break in the shooting, and we were allowed to pass. The army officials were friendly enough and shared smiles with us as we passed. 10 minutes later and a short walk through the jungle, and we were in the Hidden Valley. Miguel, the guide from Venezuela, took us 2, and Anh, the guide from Vietnam, paired with Tom and Amit. Miguel set up routes for us all day long, and taught Matt how to lead-belay, which was a fun learning experience. We climbed for the next 4 hours, gradually increasing in difficulty. Miguel set us up on some easy routes at first, given our lack of experience climbing outdoors.




Matt here – I gotta hand it to Kylie, she absolutely CRUSHED it her first time climbing outdoors. She didn’t fall ONCE and flashed every single route she climbed (meaning no mistakes from bottom to top). It was incredible to watch! We will definitely be pursuing more outdoor climbing in the future 🙂
After our day of climbing, the 6 of us went and shared a meal and some beers at one of the local restaurants. It was a fun way to end the day with some new friends. That evening, we treated ourselves to a big ‘ol hot pot.

The next day we travelled to the Cat Ba National park, and Matt had high hopes of seeing the endangered Cat Ba langur, a species of primate endemic to Cat Ba. We didn’t end up seeing any but we went on a big hike and explored around the island.



After 3 nights in Cat Ba, we took a boat back to the mainland followed by a bus to Hanoi which is the capital city of Vietnam. We only spent one night there and we spent the majority of our time exploring the various shopping districts that are interspersed throughout the downtown.


The following day we caught a flight back to Thailand from Hanoi. It was time to spend the last week of our trip exploring the coastal south of Thailand.
– Ky and Matt












































































