Vietnam – North

Our first stop in the north was Hoi An. We took an all night train to get there which was quite a restless experience. We opted for one of the cheaper options which meant sitting in an upright seat in a lit train cabin. We were woken up multiple times by train conductors yelling stops or by older women trying to sell us food throughout the night. Enventually though, we arrived in Hoi An and took a cab to our hostel. We stayed at the “Hoi An Lifestyle Homestay” located a 3 minute bike ride from old town Hoi An. Hoi An is a well kept old-style city that is exemplary of the traditional trading ports that were once bustling in the 15th-19th centuries. At one point Hoi An was considered the best trading port in all of SEA, most notably for it’s ceramics.

Hoi An, day-time ☀️
Hoi An, nigt-time 🌔
The city lights up with a colourful assortment of lanterns each night – locals believe they bring good fortune as well as being astetically pleasing. Hoi An hosts an annual lantern festival to celebrate them.

While we were in Hoi An we took advantage of the free bicycle rental provided by our homestay, cruised around and ate a lot of good food. Hoi An is also famous for their custom textiles and silk products so naturally, Matthew purchased two custom suits. He had zero intention of buying suits but we were approached on the sidewalk by a nice English speaking woman who convinced us to go check out her family’s custom fabric store. After much humming and hawing Matt designed two suits (with my help of course) – one navy and one maroon. Also while in Hoi An we went to a coffee roastery .

Robusta coffee is what’s up. It is a lot thicker and fuller taster than the arabica coffee we mostly get at home.

We spent a total of two nights in Hoi An before catching a bus to head farther North. We had heard really good things about Ninh Binh so we decided to split up our journey and spent a few days there. What we didn’t know but would later realize is that Tam Coc, the neighbouring city of Ninh Binh, was where all the sights were. So, after a 14 hour bus, we were dropped off in the middle of the city of Ninh Binh at 3:30 in the morning. The bus was supposed to arrive at 5:00 AM, but lucky us we arrived early!

So, sleepy-eyed Ky and Matt sat down on the curb to assess their options. We googled a couple of 24-hour hostels and tried walking to them, but they were all locked up and closed for the night. So much for 24 hours. We woke up one hotel owner by ringing the doorbell but he told us he was full. So we sat down again.

The walking dead ft. two dazed backpackers

By this time it was around 4:30. After some quick researching, we discovered that we actually wanted to be in Tam Coc, and that’s where all the fun outdoor activities could be found. We looked on booking.com for some cheap accommodations, booked one, and started walking. Tam Coc was about 7km away – only about a 15 minute cab ride, but we had time to kill so we started walking the 2 hour journey.

We walked along the canal in Ninh Binh, and we were not alone! There was a good number of locals out running and getting their exercise in before sunlight. Everyone was very friendly and we shared hellos with most people. We took a couple breaks along the way, but before we knew it the limestone cliffs began peaking out and we knew we were close! About 1.5km away, it started to rain on us – of course, the perfect ending to our mid-night adventure. But there was no heavy downpour, and we made it to our guest house still pretty dry.

Walking man
Finally made it to the mountains of Tam Coc around 6:30am
Still having fun, I promise

To our delight, we were greeted by some furry friends upon our arrival to ‘Tuyet’s Homestay’ plus our room was ready! We couldn’t have asked for a better greeting.

Mama and baby Milly 🖤
Kitty and Milly

After a quick power nap we took bicycles to check out a local pagoda that was built into the side of the mountain.

Into the temple we go

The next day, our host recommended we check out a boat tour down the Trang An River. We took their suggestion and went on an amazing 3.5hr boat trip winding through elaborate cave systems while dodging swooping bats!

Trang An River Tours
Our boat team for the day! No one else spoke English, but we all still got along. And we were the only ones who helped paddle.

After the tour ended we raced to Mua Cave Lookout to catch the sunset over Tam Coc. Websites online suggested allocating at least 15 minutes to get to the top of the lookout. Since we were racing to get to the top in time for the sunset we ended up completing the 500-step climb in just 6.5 minutes. Man we were sweaty! It was worth it though, the sunset was mesmerizing.

Ky? Where’d you go??
Matt!? Where are you?
Oh, there you are 😘

After 2 nights and 2 full days in Tam Coc, our next destination was Cat Ba Island. Cat Ba Island is located in Ha Long Bay and is one of the only habitable islands in the area. Cat Ba Island is known for its rugged and dramatic limestone mountain faces, sandy beaches and unreal rock climbing. We were able to book a bus through our homestay that would take us directly to Cat Ba.

Barge ride!

The bus ended up driving directly on to a large barge that carried over other cars and motorbikes. The trip on the barge took under an hour, and we were able to get off the bus to take in the sights. The bus then delivered us directly to our hostel – ah, it was fantastic to not be in Cambodia anymore and have have some trustworthy transportation! The temperature was dramatically different from Tam Coc – it was actually a bit chilly! Temperature during the day was around 15*C, and locals were dressed in parkas and pants. We certainly stuck out as tourists in our sleeveless shirts and shorts. It was late afternoon, so we dropped off our bags and went exploring. We walked about 20 minutes to find the beach, and man was it ever scenic. Check out the pictures below!

The next day, we had booked a 4-hour half day of rock climbing with Cat Ba Rock Climbing. All gear included and a guide for ~$50 Canadian, not too shabby! Our friends Erin and Josh had recommended this company, as they had spent last years Christmas on Cat Ba Island and spent some time climbing. We left around 10am, a group of 6. 2 young guys from Israel, one guide from Venezuela, and another guide from Vietnam. We were heading to an area called the Hidden Valley. However, this area and the pathway to it are currently owned by the Vietnam Army, and Cat Ba Climbing pays them for access to the area. So we arrived at the pathway, but there was a holdup – the army was performing target practice. So there we stood at the edge of a field, with rifles blasting every 20 seconds, trying to make small talk among ourselves. Lukily the 2 Israeli guys were extremely friendly and engaging.

Amit and Tom, our 2 new friends from Israel, had some interesting stories to tell us about their experiences growing up in Israel. All citizens, upon graduating high school, are immediately expected to serve 2 and 3/4 years in the army. They are paid and can learn skills, but apparently it is not thought highly of among the citizens. Amit was put into piloting/airplane engineering and Tom entered into computer programming. They had both just recently finished their time and immediately left to travel.

Eventually there was a break in the shooting, and we were allowed to pass. The army officials were friendly enough and shared smiles with us as we passed. 10 minutes later and a short walk through the jungle, and we were in the Hidden Valley. Miguel, the guide from Venezuela, took us 2, and Anh, the guide from Vietnam, paired with Tom and Amit. Miguel set up routes for us all day long, and taught Matt how to lead-belay, which was a fun learning experience. We climbed for the next 4 hours, gradually increasing in difficulty. Miguel set us up on some easy routes at first, given our lack of experience climbing outdoors.

We both tried scaling a vine, it was challenging…and slippery
Here, I was only about half way but I did end up making it to the top of the vine and grabbed a leaf as a souvenir!

Matt here – I gotta hand it to Kylie, she absolutely CRUSHED it her first time climbing outdoors. She didn’t fall ONCE and flashed every single route she climbed (meaning no mistakes from bottom to top). It was incredible to watch! We will definitely be pursuing more outdoor climbing in the future 🙂

After our day of climbing, the 6 of us went and shared a meal and some beers at one of the local restaurants. It was a fun way to end the day with some new friends. That evening, we treated ourselves to a big ‘ol hot pot.

The next day we travelled to the Cat Ba National park, and Matt had high hopes of seeing the endangered Cat Ba langur, a species of primate endemic to Cat Ba. We didn’t end up seeing any but we went on a big hike and explored around the island.

A gorgeous swallowtail butterfly we spotted on Cat Ba.

After 3 nights in Cat Ba, we took a boat back to the mainland followed by a bus to Hanoi which is the capital city of Vietnam. We only spent one night there and we spent the majority of our time exploring the various shopping districts that are interspersed throughout the downtown.

We tried egg coffee – it involves beating egg yolks with sugar and coffee to make ‘egg cream’ and and adding that to a shot of coffee.
Downtown Hanoi all lit up

The following day we caught a flight back to Thailand from Hanoi. It was time to spend the last week of our trip exploring the coastal south of Thailand.

– Ky and Matt

Cambodia Craziness

Getting into Cambodia

Our plan was to travel from Don Det to Phnom Penh and the ‘bus’ we ordered said it would be roughly a 9hr journey. So we booked our tickets and started early the next morning where we took the ferry at 8am from Don Det back to the mainland and waited for our first bus of the day. It should be noted that the details of this day are a bit hairy but bare with us. SO, the first van (not actually a bus like we were expecting) came after about an hour, showed up with a flat tire so we waited a bit longer for a replacement van. The van that showed up was equipped with 10 seats and there were 13 of us… we all looked around nervously at each other thinking some of us wouldn’t make it on. Little did we know though, that this would be one of our more comfortable (I use that word lightly) van rides.

Our driver insisted we’d all fit in, which we did, and off we went. It was a short drive to the Cambodian boarder, it took about 20 minutes or so? Our experience getting through the boarder was seamless however our 2 Canadian pals who we had met on the island that were also crossing weren’t so lucky. They showed up with no cash, there were no atm’s and it cost $38 cash to cross. Seeing that they were our friends and being the generous Canadians that we are, we helped them out and lent them the cash. They were very greatful and e-transferred us back right away (plus they threw in a little extra for our troubles, not a bad deal 😏). Once we walked through the border which was a neat experience in itself, we sat at a small roadside restaurant for 2hours until our second van arrived. We were scheduled to be brought to a bus station however, upon arrival we learned it was actually just a small restaurant. We spent about an hour or so here and ended up grabbing a bite to eat.

Walking into Cambodia

Around 1:30pm the third van of our journey arrived. We thought that this van was going to be the one that took us all the way to Phnom Penh…oh were we wrong. We got into the van and the driver proceedes to drive 50meters down the road where he left the van parked on the road (with us still in it), got out and sat outside of the van for an hour chatting up his buds. Keep in mind the van doors only open from the outside and it was a 35degrees day not to mention the van was over capacity by 4 people. It was a painful hour. Once we got going though, our driver made multiple random stops to drop packages off or pick packages up which we soon leanred was very typical of van rides in Cambodia. We proceeded to be transferred into 2 more vans, the second of which was a cargo van. If you’ve lost count by now, that’s 5 vans total.

By this time it was around 6pm and the sun was setting. The 5 hour cargo van ride was by far the worst. Not only were there 5 available seats for 10 of us but, the driver decided to take the scenic route. On the slow, dark drive through rural Cambodia, we encountered three police checks. At one check, the driver had to bribe the cops for whatever reason…our best guess was that it had something to do with the fact that there were 5 people in the front seats, including 1 American girl who was forced to sit on the drivers lap.

Eventually, we made it to Phnom Penh around 10:30pm and walked 2km to our hostel. Luckily the hostel we had our hopes on had space for us 😅. We stayed at Envoy Hostel and it had a great little kitchen and chill space. We made instant noodles and snacked on chips for dinner and guzzled it down with some 50cent beer. We got to bed around 12:30pm that night, way past our bed time. That was our longest and most exausting travel day yet and we hope it keep it that way!

Our first dinner in Cambodia!

Phnom Penh

We had a lazy morning spent recovering from our crazy travel day. Ky woke up and noticed she had acquired a rash.

Thanks to Andrea who diagnosed it as a heat rash, we got hydrocortisone stat and begun to treat it

That day we picked a few low-energy things to do around the city. We got some groceries, walked around and visited the national museum. For us, the museum was quite anticlimactic as it consisted of various stone relics which at first was neat but then, after an hour or so, got a little tedious.

The National Museum of Cambodia
Old weapons
stone, on stone, on stone

Luckily, there was a homemade noodle shop close by. We were amazed as the noddles were whipped into shape right before our eyes! We enjoyed homemade dumplings and noodle stir fry for dinner.

The noodle making process
The final product – tofu and veg stir-fry

After dinner we went to the Cambodia Living Arts Centre for an evening of dance and live music. The show was called Earth and Sky and it displayed traditional Cambodian dance, dress and music which we both found really cool.

We loved the live Cambodian music – such unique instruments
Her finger and toe flexibility was amazing 👏
Their colourful costumes were so enchanting

The next day we toured S-21, the National Genocide Museum. S-21 was an old school that had been converted into a concentration camp during the Khmer Rouge. We got the English headsets and spent around 2 hours listening and walking around the various exhibits. There weren’t any pictures allowed. What we saw is hard to describe. It was a tragic yet beautiful tribute to the lives that were taken during the genocide. The whole experience was also extremely sobering. You could feel how recently the horrific events had taken place. There were still bloodstains on the floors, prisoner carvings on the wall, chains bolted all over the floors which we hadn’t noticed until we tripped over them. It was a powerful experience, we’re glad we went and will be humbled by the experience for years to come.

On our quiet walk home it was dusk and our brains were still foggy from being inside of S-21. Kylie was walking with her head down, checking google maps and suddenly 2 men on a motor bike pulled up, intercepted her walking path and robbed her. The good news is they only got my phone, it was non-confrontational and it was over just as fast as it started. Bummer. We immediately rushed back to the hostel to begin protecting Kylie’s digital privacy (I.e. Deleting info from her phone, changing passwords), and Bell was able to remotely lock the phone from being used at all. After we recovered from the initial shock, we went out for some recovery dinner and got overpriced conveyer-belt sushi – it was delicious!

#treatyoself

The next day, we went to the police station to file a report – it was surprisingly a painless task. After that, we found a used phone store and got Kylie a used iPhone 5 for $50. PSA, she only has messenger and is unable to download any newer apps 😒. So if you have been trying to contact her, send her a message on messenger, that’s all she’s got right now! That evening, we caught a night bus to Siem Reap. A couple sleeping pills later, and we had arrived.

Siem Reap

We arrived at 6am, walked around a bit in a sleepy haze until we found a cheap hostel, called Unity. The owner was super-friendly and insisted we eat breakfast for free before we had even decided to stay. Suffice it to say we did stay there lol. That evening, we walked through the Siem Reap night market, where Matt was pressured into buying a nice new white cloth shirt and was then encouraged to tip the ladies who sold it to him because they had called him handsome! Nice try ladies, no tip for you. We then walked to dinner, at the Bug Cafe! Check out the following photos to see what we ate 🙂

Grilled tarantula! Actually very tasty.
Here, we have tarantula samasos, ant spring rolls, a kebab of fried crickets, bamboo worm dumplings, and cricket and silk worm stir fry.
Crunchy scorpion!
Kylie sampling the cricket and silk worm stir fry – says it’s really well seasoned.

The next day, we had reservations at a nice resort located on the outskirts of downtown, called Tanei Resort and Spa. We hiked with our bags there – took us over an hour and it was stinking hot, but the pool made the walk worth it! We spent 3 nights here, maxin and relaxin by the pool, taking advantage of 2 for 1 happy hour, and enjoying the complementary white robes 🥂

Our last day in Siem Reap was spent touring Angkor Wat. We booked a sunrise tuk-tuk tour, so we arrived at Angkor for 5:00am. The city of temples was full of beautiful relics, but our tour guide spoke barely any English and spent most of the day giggling at himself. It was a little disappointing since we were told we would get an English speaking guide but we didn’t want to be rude. We did our own reading about the temples on Wikipedia later when we got home.

Sunrise over Angor Wat
Inside Angor Wat
Angor Wat in all its’ glory
Matt’s attention was grabbed by a busy trail of ants – we may have spent more time looking at the ants than in the temple…
Angor monkeys
At one of these overgrown temples, they did some filming for Lara Croft: tomb Raider.

That night, it was time for us to part ways – Kylie was attending her 6-day yoga retreat the next day, so Matt hopped on a night bus to the west coast of Cambodia, Sihanoukville.

Matt’s bachelor week

I arrived in Sihanoukville at 6am. From here I was able to get my ferry ticket to the islands, the main reason I was there. I chose my destination of Koh Rong Sanloem. There were a couple spots to choose from, and I chose M’Pai Bay. A 45 min ferry ride later and I was there, in paradise! It was a beautiful island. I walked around the island twice, scoping out all of the spots to stay. 2 different people ran out of their restaurants to ask if I was lost lol it was very friendly. I settled on a hostel a bit farther away from everything, called the Lookout. It had a great lookout (fitting, I know) over the ocean.

On the pier at Koh Rong Sanloem

I checked in, and walked around the island a bit. After returning to my hostel, I found out I had a new neighbour in the dorm I was staying. His name was Tom (England) and he had been to the island previously for a few months, so he knew a lot of people there. He invited me to a party at the Two Ducks bar that afternoon, and I obliged. We went to the party, and I was quick to discover there was a large population of English people there on the island, running hostels and bars and other small businesses. The party was a lot of fun, drank a lot of beer, and they even served dinner and with a donation bin that went to the island. Afterwards, we caught the sunset from the Lookout, and then went to the Dragonfly bar next door for the rest of the night.

Ate dinner on the beach one night.
Sunset from the Look Out

The next day, Tom and I went snorkelling. It was loads of fun, and we stayed out there for over 4 hours. Saw lots of cool wildlife, including cuttlefish, barracuda, and hermit crabs. Unfortunately, I got really burnt 😦 I was a lobster. I spent a lot of time reading my book, and crashed early. The following day, I spent some time planning our Vietnam trip, and I went for a hike through the jungle. I went to the Dragonfly again that evening, but turned in early. This is when I started to not feel well… I spent the entire night being taken over by a sickness. I was getting chilling waves through my body, high fever, and restlessness all night. I woke the next day, and everyone swore I just had a “clang-over” – a hangover resulting from drinking too many shitty $1 beers. It made sense, but I knew I was actually sick and not just hungover. I scheduled a ferry trip back to the mainland for that afternoon. I booked the cheapest private hotel with AC I could find, and caught a taxi as soon as I got back.

Another view from the Look Out.
Sad to leave the island 😔

My amazing friends convinced me to go to a doctors office. So, the following day I took a taxi back into town (as the hotel was a bit out of the way). I told the Dr my symptoms, she took me for a blood test, and sure enough I had contracted Dengue Fever, a mosquito borne illness. Go figure – an entomologist contracting an insect borne virus! The Dr prescribed me some immune system enhancing meds (as the only cure is rest) and I went back to the hotel to sleep. I couldn’t get into contact with Ky until the following day around 10am, so I buckled in for a rough 24 hours. The Dr said it could be a 7-14 d illness, and I was only on day 2.

The next day, the wifi crapped out and I actually ran out of data, so I had to venture out of my hotel room to get a top up for my SIM card. I made it just in time to get into contact with Kylie as she was leaving her yoga retreat. We had plans to bus separately and meet up in Phnom Penh, but there was no chance of that happening. Quick change of plans – she was now going to fly to me in Sihanoukville. She arrived at 9:30pm and proceeded to nurse me back to health over the next few days. Phew what a relief it was she had finally arrived!

Kylie arrived and stocked up on nutritious food to help me get better faster.

After a few rough days with Matt’s fever spicking on and off, he finally started to come out of his dengue state enough for us to move on from Cambodia. Next up, Vietnam!

– Ky & Matt

From Huay Xai to Don Det

From Chiang Mai, we took a 4 hour bus to Chiang Rai. Found a super cheap hole-in-the-wall hostel for the first night, and then found a nicer 8-bed hostel for the next night. We only had 3 other travellers in the room with us, and everyone was quiet and respectful. Not much to report about Chiang Rai – it was basically a smaller Chiang Mai, and about half of the restaurants and stores were closed because it was a long weekend. BUT we did go for Thai massages, and holy crap did my body ever need that. I have never received a professional massage, but I’ll definitely be getting another. We ate a cheap 7/11 dinner that night consisting of ramen and stuffed buns, and had a good nights sleep.

The next morning, we caught an 8am bus to the Laos border. The bus had open windows and an open door at the back, and unfortunately one woman’s bag flew off of the bus halfway! There was some conversing in Thai (had not reached the border yet) and I guess they made plans for her to retrieve it. We learned a new lesson that day – make sure our bags are SECURELY packed away!

We passed through the border seamlessly – we were officially in the second country of our trip! A Laotian visa was about $40 CAD on arrival. From here, we took a van cab to the pier in Huay Xai (pronounced who-I say) where we hopped onto the popular 2-day river slow boat along the Mekong River.

The Mekong River is the worlds 12th longest river and the 7th longest in Asia (which infers that Asia has some of the world’s longest rivers!). It runs through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, and is a major trade route between western China and SE Asia (thanks Wikipedia).

Day 1 of 2

Day 1 of the slow boat ride along the Mekong River, from Huay Xai to Pak Beng.

The first day consisted of an 6.5 hour ride from Huay Xai to Pak Beng. It was a gorgeous route. We had arrived minutes before departure so we had to get seats near the back of the boat, which has been reported to be deafening due to the motor. The motor wasn’t that loud – it was the other tourists who were loud! Ky and I were all set for a nice and peaceful boat ride, reading our books, and taking in the sights, but the boat quickly turned into a party boat. Beer was sold on board but a lot of people came prepared with their own. There were 2 middle aged Australian men in front of us who got absolutely plastered, kept trying to initiate conversation with us, but it ended up turning into them talking down to us like children. They quickly got the point that they were being annoying and we didn’t want to entertain them anymore. But we didn’t let them ruin our ride; we ordered some beers for ourselves, plugged in to our headphones, and read. It was also aggravating to watch grown adults ooh and ahh when they saw naked indigenous children swimming and playing in the river, as if they were animals in a zoo. People rushed to the side of the boat to snap pictures of them. Kylie and I just looked at each other and rolled our eyes in disbelief. Toursists, man.

Line up for the slow boat.
Inside the boat
Great views along the Mekong.
Ready for some dinner after a long day on the Mekong River

We arrived at the port in Pak Beng, a small river village, and were swarmed by locals trying to get us into tuk tuks to their guest houses and stay for the night. We politely refused and pushed through and walked the 500m distance to the village with our own 2 feet and found a nice spot for about half of what was being advertised at the pier. We met a friendly German traveller named Johanna who was also looking for a place to stay, showed her to the guest house we found, and then invited her to dinner. It was Thanksgiving Day back home, and it was nice to share a meal with a new friend. I ordered a traditional Laos dish called Laap, which was minced meat (I chose pork) overtop of vegetables. And the restaurant we went to gave us each a free shot of whiskey. Afterwards we settled into our private room for a much needed sleep.

Thanksgiving dinner! Kylie ordered pumpkin curry (top) and I ordered pork Laap.

Day 2 of 2

Day 2 route from Pak Beng to Luang Prabang.

The next day, we got to the pier 30 mins early to get better seats. It seemed like a lot of other people had a similar idea, but we managed to get a good seat near the front of the boat, and it was a much more peaceful ride. We think a lot of people were suffering from the day before. We both napped, read a lot, met a fellow Canadian from Vancouver, and ordered a couple of beers. It was a longer second day boat ride (~8.5 hours) but we arrived in Luang Prabang with still a bit of daylight. We found a decent hostel for the night, and went searching for dinner.

Happy campers because we got seats at the front of boat!
Views along the Mekong.
Cool temple built into the side of the rock face

We settled for a spot along the river, and heard there was a night market so we headed there next. It turned out to be a great market – lots of local art, free whiskey and wine tasting (I actually bought a small bottle of wine), and some tasty vegetarian street food.

Stayed at the City Center Hostel

As we were walking the night market, we saw a travel agency that plans bus rides. We knew we wanted to get to the 4000 islands in Laos, specifically Don Det, but didn’t know how to get there yet. We quickly discovered we could do a full day of travel the next day and planned a crash course to Don Det. We heard that Don Det was a beautiful and relaxing island, and that is exactly what we were looking for.

The next morning, we took a van taxi from Luang Prabang at 8am to Vientiane. It was HOT and crowded. The AC did not seem to work very well. Kylie felt crazy sick the entire ride, and it didn’t help the trip consisted of a lot of winding roads through the mountains. It was a beautiful and scenic ride though. We had a bus transfer in Vang Vieng, which actually seemed like a very cool place to stay and in hindsight we may have stayed a night there if we had known what it offered: lots of hiking and trekking through mountains and jungles. However, Vang Vieng has a reputation; upon googling it, one of the first descriptions is ‘a hedonistic party town.’ So, maybe not the worst thing we skipped it. We arrived at the Vientiane bus station around 6pm, and had time to buy some bus station dinner (ramen) and a couple of beers before our night bus.

Kylie feeling sick 🤢 luckily she didn’t spew!
View of Vang Vieng
Feeling exhausted by the time we arrived at the Vientiane bus station but at least we still had our peanut butter
Bus station dinner!

The Night Bus

This was our first experience on a sleeper bus. Instead of seats, there are small beds. Felt like we were on the night bus in Harry Potter! One problem we were quick to notice is that these kind of suck for single travellers; there is a very good chance you get paired with another single traveller who you’re forced to sleep in very close confines with for the ride. We heard a disgruntled gentlemen in front us complain “I asked them to make sure I was alone!!!” Turns out the only way to assure you are alone is to buy 2 tickets!

Night bus accomodation – able to fit side by side like sardines. Not long enough to completely stretch out either.

Even though we had a bed for the night, it was pretty uncomfortable. Our bed was right beside the bathroom, which had people coming and going all night. Also, everything in Asia is not designed for large people. So I was constantly bumped through the night. Also, it seemed that the storage underneath the bus was full, and they packed the entire isles with bags so that it was basically a jungle gym that people had to crawl over to reach the bathroom. We have now learned that it is common for buses and vans in SE Asia to transport goods and who knows what else on public transport. They pack as much shit as possible onto whatever vehicle has space.

Anyways, after not a very restful sleep, we arrived in Paske at 6:30AM. We climbed into a truck taxi, and were the only tourists surrounded by 15 locals. Before we left the station, women with baskets of fried insects came around so obviously I bought some. They were selling bags of crickets and bamboo worms with green onion for 50 cents. It was an odd choice for breakfast, but the onion complemented the bugs quite well. However, it would probably be best served as a dinner appetizer. For the remainder of the 4 hour drive, we stopped frequently in small villages where locals would surround the truck and (much to Kylie’s dismay) shove sticks of entire roasted chickens into the truck for purchase. I tried one of these a few days later on Don Det (petty good).

Breakfast mmm

Finally, we had arrived in Nakasong, where we caught a 15 minute ferry to Don Det. We were here, paradise awaited us!

Basically travelled all of Laos in a 24 hour span. Sure there were waterfalls and things to see and do in other parts of Laos, but we WANTED to get to Don Det and chill. Maybe next time we would split the journey into 2 days, but we made it and had a BLAST on Don Det.

Chiang Mai – Matt

Since Kylie posted such a fantastic recap of our time in Chiang Mai, I’ll be posting a condensed version with some of my photos.

Chiang Mai from atop of Doi Suthep

We arrived zombie-eyed from our night bus in Chiang Mai early in the morning. We grouped together with a band of other backpackers from the Netherlands, Italy, Belgium, and England, and shared a taxi into the old town part of Chiang Mai where all the hostels are located.

We got a sweet deal on Expedia for a hotel with a pool, so we didn’t do much on the first day except swim and chill by the pool. We relaxed, blogged, and searched what to do! Luckily we had arrived on a Sunday and were able to catch the Sunday Night Market, our favourite market yet! So many different food options for a great price. I stuffed myself for under 100 baht (less than $5).

The next day, we did a trip to Doi Suthep, where we did the Monks Hike and received some gorgeous views of Chiang Mai. We continued on to the second part of the hike (through a construction area! Shhhh)… and it was gruelling! Both of us were drenched in sweat and sucking for air. We finished the hike, even though the end was not the summit. We hiked back down and made it back to the hotel in time for a swim and to check out. We ate a delicious lunch at ‘Taste from Heaven’ a vegetarian and vegan restaurant. I had Khao Soi, a classic Thai dish of noodles in a coconut curry with crispy fried noodles on top. So good!!!

We then went back up to Doi Suthep to the summit, where there was a gorgeous temple and even better views of Chiang Mai. Here are a bunch of photos of the temple.

Next day, we sought out Doi Inthanon, the highest peak in Thailand. We eventually made it to the top, and hiked a small nature trail at the summit. We were in a cloud forest, a very unique ecosystem, which made for some cool insect finds, which will be posted in a separate post.

Kylie posing at the summit of Doi Inthanon (2565 m).

There was a really beautiful temple up top, but we decided not to go in because 1. We already paid a steep entrance fee of 300 baht each, and 2. We were short for time since it took us so long to get there!!! So we admired from a far, but on the way down we stopped at the second largest waterfall in Chiang Mai, Wachirithran Falls. Stunning views!

We missed the biggest waterfall in Chiang Mai, Mae Kon (wrong) falls, but little did we know was that we would be able to experience it on our journey to the elephant sanctuary the next day. 

Later that night, I ate a meal to remember. I ordered the seafood dish, and was very surprised to receive an almost entirely intact squid in the bowl. Although I made a huge mess trying to eat it, it was super tasty.

That’s it for my recap of Chiang Mai. Our elephant sanctuary post will be up soon!

– M

Matt’s take on Bangkok

Kylie posing with a GIANT bonsai tree at the National Museum.

Alright so here is my own take on our Bangkok experience (a week overdue!). I think we really made the most out of our time there. Although it was a very busy city and not quite our vibe, we still found ways to really enjoy ourselves.

Our very first mission was to get our first plate of pad Thai. There was a small mom and pop shop around the corner from our hostel, and made a beeline for it as soon as we had checked in. It did NOT disappoint and 2 weeks into the trip it still stands as one of our favourite meals so far!

First pad Thai!

Khaosan Rd
The fabled tourist paradise, Khaosan Rd. Where you can eat fried insects (including scorpions and tarantulas), drink at a number of different bars, get a tattoo or a Thai massage, and purchase a multitude of knick knacks from market vendors. It felt like an Asian NYC, all on a single street. I did try a stick of friend insects – it had crickets, grasshoppers, bamboo worms, bigger crickets, and even a frog at the end (didn’t eat the frog). My first entomophagy experience in Thailand was a disappointing one – everything was so deep friend they all tasted exactly the same, like a below average oil. I think I was sucked into the tourist trap, and should have held out for more authentic snack insects in the North. Oh well! Still fun to try.

Khaosan Rd
Greasy fried insects – not that good lol

Still on Khaosan Rd we met a friendly middle aged Australian couple and sat down for a beer with them. During this time, a street vendor approached us to try and sell Jack Daniels themed tasers – yes TASERS. He gave a quick zap-zap, and we said no and he was on his way. What a city.

Of course we also did some sightseeing. We went and saw Bangkok’s iconic giant swing. We also took a trip to the National Museum, where we learned of the Terra Cotta. It was a fun and interesting way to cool down.

Giant swing!
Chinese armor

Our hostel was located along a canal, and we were able to walk up and down the canal to get to some of the more main streets for food and transit access.

Walks on the canal felt like a great little escape from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.

During breakfast one morning, Kylie spotted a couple monitor lizards climbing up the wall of the canal! The bigger one was at least 3 ft in length. Monitor lizards are either good or bad luck in Thailand; calling someone a monitor lizard can be the ultimate insult!

Monitor lizard!

On our last day in Bangkok, we took the city bus to the Jatujak market, where there are hundreds of street vendors selling clothing, trinkets, and food. Nearby was a free butterfly conservatory that we had a lot of fun in.

Exploring the Jatujak market

Our time in Bangkok ended with a 14hr night bus trip to Chiang Mai. City transit in Bangkok was surprisingly very easy to use and also pretty cheap. We spent 3 days in Bangkok, but that was more than enough city time for us.

Stay tuned for updates on our time spent in Chiang Mai, and for a special post about our 4 day trip to an elephant sanctuary!

– M

First cool insect 👀

As we were walking along the canal pathway behind our hostel, Kylie spotted the our first cool insect of the trip! This little parasitic wasp is called an Ensign wasp (Evaniidae; Hymenoptera). There are over 400 species found across the world. It is not uncommon to find them in cities such as Bangkok because of their cool parasitic life history. There were two individuals – one stationary with bright blue eyes, and the other twitchy with bright green eyes. I assumed the twitchy one was a male, waving its wings and leg tapping in an attempt to attract a mate, but this is just a guess.

Ensign wasp, ~ 1 inch long.

Ensign wasps lay their eggs inside cockroach ootheca. An ootheca is an egg case that female cockroaches produce. The wasp eggs hatch and the developing larvae feed on the cockroach eggs. I was amazed at how tiny their abdomens are, and would have loved to see how they manage to parasitize ootheca. Unfortunately I didn’t get a shot of the wasp parasitizing an ootheca as we did not see any ootheca around, however earlier that day we were lucky enough (lol) to find a cockroach in the street and got a good shot to complement this post. 

The rescued roach, ~2.5 in

Funny enough, we were sitting on a patio on Khaosan Road eating lunch and we saw the roach on its back miserably flailing its arms. We had agreed to flip it or put it out of its misery once we were finished, but one of the restaurant promoters on the sidewalk beat us to it. Rather than stomping on it, he showed a brief glimpse of compassion for what most would see as an unpleasant pest and gently flipped it over. Ky and I flashed him a thumbs up and a smile and continued to enjoy lunch 🙂