Our first stop was Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam – also known as Siagon, this city houses around 8.9 million people and is the financial hub of Vietnam. The flight from Sihanoukville to Ho Chi Minh took just over an hour and getting through immigration took another hour meaning we arrived in the city in the late afternoon.
Our flight from Sihanoukville to Ho Chi Minh was delayed 2 hours. We occupied our time playing Scrabble on our phones and trying new types of candy.
Out of the 4 countries we visited, Vietnam is the only one that doesn’t condone getting a visa upon arrival, you apply for one in advance either online or at an embassy. We chose to do ours online as that seemed easiest but after doing some research we discovered that there were a lot of scams and faulty visa application websites that would take your money and give you a fake visa. Because of this, I was quite nervous as we stood in the long line to go through immigration. It didn’t help to calm my nerves when it seemed like every second white person was being turned away and sent to an even longer line labelled ‘visa services.’ However when we finally got to the front of the line, the officer on duty hardly seemed to give our visa’s a second look and stamped us through no problem! Phew, Matt and I were both really happy and relieved that we had chosen a valid visa website π
Once we left the airport we began the hunt for a cheap hostel. We settled on ‘WillHome Hostel’, a cheap 8 person dorm room with breakfast included for only $7 a night. It wasn’t the cleanest or quietest hostle we’ve stayed in but Matt was still feeling fatigued from dengue and flying really took it out of him so when we got our room key he layed down to rest for a few hours.
Sunset from the hostel rooftop.
That evening we stumbled upon a kick-ass vegan restaurant where we tried our first hot pot – a popular cooking method here that involves a large pot of soup broth placed on a single burner in the middle of the table with an assortment of protein and vegetables mixed in it. Also with the hot pot comes a big plate of veggies to top it up, some vermicelli noodles and garnish such as fresh mint, cumin, sprouts and lime. It was delicious and a great value for money. Easily one of my favourite dishes!
The hot pot definitely helped dengue Matt feel better
We spent a total of 2 nights in Ho Chi Minh and occupied most of our time with walking around the city and eating at all the vegetarian restaurants we could get our hands on. Ho Chi Minh was such a welcome change of scenery after being in bleak and dreary Sihanoukville. I found Sihanoukville very uncatering towards vegetarians and I ended up eating either fried rice or fried noodle most of the time as that was all there was. I mean, not the worst thing but I knew getting out of there would mean more options for food and for fun and man was I right. One thing I noticed and really liked about Ho Chi Minh city was how popular vegetarian food was – locals of all ages could be seen casually eating out at vegetarian restaurants!
An amazin Indian feast at a restaurant called Baba’s – it was very cheap and gave generous portion sizes
After a quick but delicious stop in Ho Chi Minh, we caught a flight to Da Lat – the city of a thousand pine trees (so it’s said). Da Lat is a quaint city located approximately 1500 metres above sea level and is surrounded by vast, coniferous tree covered mountains.
Dalat, Vietnam
We stayed in Dalat for 3 nights spending our first night in a great little hostel called the ‘Brew and Breakfast’ – a hostel that prides themselves on serving tasty vegan food which we treated ourselves to for breakfast. They also had a few friendly cats and dogs that lived there which made me really happy.
There was a cute little rooftop garden accessible from our dorm room Our delicious animal product free breakfast! Matt got banana pancakes and I got the loaded oatmeal. This was my first time trying Vietnamese coffee which I feel comfortable saying is some of the best coffee I have ever drank.
Our second two nights were spent at the ‘Maple Hostel’.
Our room.The view from our room which was amazing.Since breakfast wasn’t included here we enjoyed snacking on fresh fruit – Long Kong, Passion Fruit, Mango and Dragon Fruit.
While we were in Dalat we visited the Datanla Waterfall, one of the three ‘must see’ waterfalls in the area. It was pretty busy but we picked a nice day for it.
After the waterfalls we headed back into the city to check out an architectural point of interest. It’s called the ‘Crazy House’ and it’s a hotel where every room has a stand alone design and decore. For a small admission fee you can spend as much time as you’d like exploring the crazy house. For me it was like stepping into a hobbit-sized, Dr. Suess inspired children’s book that had come to life. It was really neat to frolic around in for a few hours but I have no desire to actually stay there because there are nosy tourists walking through your accommodations every single day!
That evening it was cold (like 12 degrees) and raining so we were craving some comfort food and what’s better than a vegetarian buffet? π It was a good way to end our busy day.
On our last evening, we decided to check out a cool bar called ‘The Maze’ because our friends recommended it to us for its unique atmosphere (thanks Ern + Josh!). Turns out the name is pretty self explanatory as it’s a 5 story bar and the entire thing is one huge maze! Every floor has a different theme and no two staircases lead to the same place. No map, no employees walking around to help and only 1 bar. Here are some pictures from that lost lost night…
Before we left Dalat, we made sure to try some of the local specialties!
Artichoke Tea – really light and bitter tasting which reminded me a bit of green tea. Is said to have tons of health benefits and is quite tasty to boot. Fun fact: Da Lat is home to the countries’ largest cultivation of artichokes Vang Dalat – meaning Dalatred wine has become famous for its strong taste and fruity, strawberry kick. The grapes are grown in the neighbouring region of Pang Rang. We paired our wine with a crunchy yet subtle delicacy, the Cheese Slide. I was picking up on strong notes of cheddar Pringles, would recommend.I π street π½!
De Lat was awesome and we both really enjoyed our stay but after 3 days it was time to say goodbye. We took a bus to Nha Trang, a small coastal town famous for its beaches. We only spent a total of 10 hours there as it was just a stop over on our long bus journey to get to Hoi An, but we made the most of it. We set up camp on the beach and enjoyed a relaxing recovery day by the ocean, the South China Sea to be exact.
Matt just out for a dip. The waves were huge! We enjoyed watched tourists get pitted by the waves. Matt almost lost his shorts multiple times. It was my first ocean swim of the trip!
That evening we caught an over-night train (which was our first train ride of the trip) to continue on to Hoi An. That being said, I’m going to leave it here and save those stories and more about northern Vietnam for the next post. Stay tuned!
This is a small post reviewing some of the different flavours of chips we have discovered so far. This post will continually be updated.
Ky: Not bad. Not great? A little too sweet yet fishy at the same time for my liking.
Matt: they don’t taste like actual seaweed so that’s a plus. I give them a 4.5/6. Matt: easily the best chips of the trip. Lays nailed the taste of green curry. So good!! North America needs these. 6/6
K: they taste like a literal bowl of curry but also have the crunchyness of a chip. In other words, they are delicious! Not too sweet, they actually have a bit of heat to them. So. Gooood. 10/10 M: Tastes like egg! I kinda dig it. 4/6.
K: Yup, taste like egg yoke. M: Tastes like a bean flavoured cheeto.
K: A beato? Kind of tastes stale.M: Tastes like wasabi. I don’t like wasabi. 0/6 K: creamy wasabi flavor with a KICK, not bad at all M: fishy and spicy. But not that bad. 4/6. K: taste was subtle and resembled steak seasoning. No purchase again for me
M: sort of like a subtle rib sauce. It was pretty average.
Don Det, Laos truly is a backpacker’s paradise. Located in the south of Laos, Don Det is one of 3 habitable islands in an area known as the 4,000 islands. We heard that the 4,000 islands was a nice place to kick-back and relax so we hurried our way across the entire country of Laos in just 3 days so we could experience it for ourselves.
Don Det Island is approximately 8km in length and biking is the main mode of transportation as the roads weren’t wide enough for cars. We spend a total of 7 days there and it quickly began to feel like home. The locals were welcoming and very helpful, the street cats and dogs were the friendlyist we’ve encountered yet and the beer was always cold. What’s not to fall in love with?! We spent most of time eating, reading and biking around.
Matt in his natural habitat. This was hands down one of the best accommodations on the island. It’s called Mr.Tho’s guesthouse and it was clean, spacious, quiet (as it’s set back off the main walking path), included breakfast, A/C and a queen sized bed for 150000kip ($23) a night.
On our first night, after we chose a guest house and got settled, we found a bar on the West side of the island to catch our first Don Det sunset
The sunset definitely did not disappointThis is also where we made first friend! We suspect he was more interested in the games on Matt’s phone than he was in us but hey, we’ll take itMmm Beer Laos. It was under $2 a big bottle
Highlights from our week on Don Det include:
Discovering the coffee shakes.
Laos-style coffee more closely resembles the consistency of tar and the taste of jet fuel. Not a nice way to start the day. The coffee shakes were made with lots of ice and condensed milk which made the coffee actually enjoyable.
Catching a local boat racing tournament.
The village gathered in the East side of the island to cheer on their local athletes.I was pleasantly surprised to see some women’s boat races!
Going on a full-day kayaking trip
Our first stop involved a short hike to Khone Pa Soi Waterfall on Don Khon Island (the neighbouring island to Don Det) Then we paddled to another area of Don Khon and were taken to a small village to whiteness a mourning ceremony. When there is a death, this village gathers to share food and celebrate the life that was lost.From there we paddled to the top of Don Khon island where there was a boat waiting for us. We had a lovely vegetarian lunch on the boat- egg fried rice, grilled veg on a baggutte and fresh pineapple and watermelon for dessert. The boat took us up river to a protected area of the river where we caught a glimpse of a endangered dolphin species Irrawaddy dolphins are known for their purple/pink colouring. This is the only picture I got of them. Matt sitting on the boarder between Laos and Cambodia. The shoreline behind him is in Cambodia. Perched and on the look out for my Irrawaddy homies On our paddle back to Don Det we sprung a leak and almost sunk the kayak. We got to shore just in time and drained our water logged boat for about 10 minutes. Even more comical was our guides didn’t notice our absence…Our last stop of the day was the largest waterfall in Laos, Khonephapheng waterfall
Timelapse of the Khonephapheng waterfall. Pretty impressive!
Our first pumpkin burger experience
$1 for padthai, $1.50 for the spring roll and $4 for the pumpkin burger
Indian food at our favourite restaurant on the island, Jasmine’s. We ate here 4 times!
Jasmine’s had great food and great views.
And of course…the kitties. Sorry Pete!
Our final sunset
Don Det was exactly what we were looking for – a relaxing place to unwind. It was a great week.
This is a long one folks, so pop your popcorn, brew a cup of tea, and settle in for a nice read. So while we were in Chiang Mai, we noticed a lot of advertisements for elephant sanctuaries which peaked our interest. After doing some research we stumbled across a glowing review for Burm & Emily’s Elephant Sanctuary (BEES) and decided to reach out to them about the possibly of volunteering. Within 30 minutes we had already received an enthusiastic response from Emily, the co-founder. Seeing as it’s low-season for tourism in Thailand right now Emily surprised us with a discounted offer and just like that we were their newest recruits!
BEES was the elephant sanctuary of our choosing because of their hands-off approach to elephant tourism. There is no riding or bathing of elephants at BEES, just observing elephants being elephants. Although not a strange concept, it is still a fresh idea for elephant tourism in Thailand, where other companies advertise riding, hand-feeding, bathing and grooming as the main activities.
Our adventure began when BEES arranged to pick us up directly from our hostel in Old Town Chiang Mai. Their sanctuary is located in the Mae Cham district, found in the heart of Doi Inthanon National Park. It was about a 4 hour drive away! Our driver’s name was Tan and he was great to chat with as he answered a lot of questions we had about the area. We spent most of our drive singling along to his homemade mixtape of early 2000s BANGERS including Kelly Clarkson and James Blunt; he uses American music to help improve his English. He also told us Thai’s like really spicy food as they believe it builds strength. Tan’s hospitality and friendly demeanour made for a great start to our excursion. Early on, we noticed a giant billboard with a rhinoceros beetle, and Tan (to our surprise) said that Thailand engages in ‘beetle fighting’ and it is actually a hobbby of his! More on this later π. Soon after, we were aware that we were headed for Doi Inthanon National Park, the park we had gone to the day before however, although this time we didn’t have to pay the admission fee π Once we got through the gates Tan took us to a beautiful waterfall for a picnic and a swim. It was so refreshing!
Mae Pan Waterfall, Doi Inthanon National Park
Upon arrival to BEES we were greeted by a what felt like hundreds of cats and dogs!! Okay, okay, it was more like 20, but still, it was a little overwhelming (but in a good way, it was actually HEAVEN).
We had about 40 mins to settle into our jungle bungalow before we were put to work. Our first task was to help prepare treats for the elephants! These treats are used as incentive for the elephants to return to their paddocks at the end of every day, as they are given all day to graze as they please throughout the jungle. First, we peeled and mushed (with our hands) about 80 bananas and ran long sticks of sugarcane through a shredder. While Kylie was shredding sugarcane, Matt was expertly wielding a machete to finely peel and chop pumpkin. This snack was for Thong Dee, the oldest elephant at bees, a whopping 74 years young. She is on her last set of teeth (elephants have 6 sets of teeth in their lives), and elephants can develop serious gastrointestinal blockages if they can not chew and/or digest their food properly. So Thong Dee was fed this delicious slurry, which she slurped up with her trunk and blasted into the back of her mouth!
For the other 2 elephants, we made an assortment of unpeeled bananas and large pumpkin slices into baskets. And then, we got to deliver the elephant snacks! We got to feed the 2 younger (middle-aged) elephants the first day, Mae Kam and Mae Dok. We quickly shoved their respective bins into their paddocks and backed away a few feet to watch them eat. This also gave us a chance to get to know Emily. She moved to Thailand from Australia when she was 18, married Burm when she was 21, gave birth to their son at 23 and now, at the age of 26, her and Burm now have 3 elephants in their care at BEES.
Emily watching Mae Kam & Mae Dok enjoy their treats Mae Kam (left) stealing Mae Dok’s (right) treats!
Then we ate dinner, and there was a German-Russian couple there who did a day trip at BEES and they joined us for the meal. Also joining us was the animal behaviourist Chrissy from Montana. We had a great dinner with discussions surrounding politics in each country, environmentalism, and insects as food (obviously).
After dinner, we headed upstairs to the Kitty Cafe and played cards with Tee and Got, 2 of the employees at BEES, who were actually each of our respective ages. We taught them how to play crazy 8’s, and they taught us a Thai card game. Afterwards, we headed off to our first sleep without AC!! But it was actually ok, and we slept like babies.
It was this night that Matt the cat and Matt the human met for the first time. They got along great πΎ
FIRST FULL DAY
We woke up to fresh breakfast awaiting us. We ate and drank coffee outside with the dogs until our new friend Got (aka our jungle guide) arrived.
Matt and Meme getting to know each other over some eggs. Booboo the shy Huskey is peaking in the background too. Kylie with her posse!
Chrissy the behaviourist also joined us. Got lead us along a river, following the elephants tracks into the jungle.We were essentially tracking them so we could see them just being elephants in the jungle.
Em (front) and Got (back) guiding us downstream Got pointed out Thong Dee’s tracks along the way. Here’s Kylie stepping in the elephant tracks.
On the way, Matt was furiously taking pictures of every insect in sight. He was transported right back to his field course in India. We were greeted with an incredible find not even 5 minutes into the hike – a vinegaroon! Super cool. Along the river, we encountered a pair of women foraging river crabs. Got exchanged pleasantries with them and we were on our way.
A vinegaroon.
Eventually, we encountered Thong Dee and her mahout (the elephants guide/trainer).
Thong Dee and her Mahout
A rule at BEES is that tourists must remain 4 meters away at all times. We were keeping our distances, and Got motioned for Matt to get closer. While he was admiring Thong Dee, she suddenly picked up on a scent. She turned around, and began using her trunk to feel around Matt, eventually landing her trunk on his backpack. He was frozen and nervously laughing. She began to pull on his backpack with her trunk, as she knew there were some tasty banana treats in there. Got quickly intervened with a soft pat on her trunk and instructed Matt to swiftly dip underneath her trunk and back away. Although this seemed a little scary, the mahout did not even react and we were in no immediate danger. What a really cool experience and encounter. She was incredibly strong with her trunk – if she wanted to, she could have ripped my bag off my back but she used some restraint and went back to grazing after I moved out of the way.
Thong Dee sniffing out the bananas Ky realizing elephants are much bigger and faster than expected up close, hence the uncomfortable pose
Each elephant at BEES has as assigned mahout, although mahouts are a controversial topic… Ky wrote a small blurb on this at the end of Day 1.
Old girl is posing for her close up!
After our close encounter with Thong Dee, we decided to move on to find the other 2 elephants. When we found Mae Dok and Mae Kam along a stream (who by the way are BEST friends and are just absolutely in love with each other), they were grazing while their mahouts smoked banana leaf cigars. We followed the elephants up stream, and eventually stopped for lunch while the elephants stopped for a mud bath. It was interesting to watch the elephants make the consistency of mud they desired; they would stir up the mud with their trunks until it was a perfect blend.
Mae Dok scratching herself on a tree.Fun fact: elephants can smell a water source from up to 4km away
After lunch, we followed closely behind Mae Kam, who started to drift away a little from Mae Dok. Just as Chrissy was explaining to us how elephants communicate through rumbling vibrations and moaning, we heard Mae Kam let out a very low rumbling bellow. We did not think much of it, but Got immediately recognized that she was calling for her BFF Mae Dok. The following events took place in what felt like a split second. Got quickly moved us out of the paths of the 2 elephants because he sensed something was going to happen. Just as we ducked under the cover of some bamboo, Mae Kam let out the MOST powerful trumpet we have ever heard. We are both getting goosebumps just writing about it. It was INCREDIBLE – the jungle floor shook, and Mae Dok came galloping up the hill towards her friend Mae Kam. Within 4 elephant strides, she was the top of a 50-60m hill. They embraced each other with their trunks, and went back to grazing. Chrissy and Got informed us that Mae Kam just thought she had lost Mae Dok as she couldn’t see her and wanted to know where she was. After this exhilarating moment, Got decided it was time to head home. We had been hiking for over 6 hours so we figured it was time too.
It was bitter-sweet to part ways with them
That evening, we again prepared elephant treats and fed them. We were expecting to head back to dinner when we received an invitation from Burm, Emily’s husband and Mae Cham local, to go and pick up some banana trees from the temple. We obliged and hopped in the back of the truck, eager to see more of the village and lend a helping hand. We picked up 6 juvenile banana trees that had been dug up, and headed back to BEES to replant them on the property. On the way back, Burm stopped at a local hot spring. It was very small, but very beautiful, and it was here that Burm opened up about the legacy he has developed in Mae Cham and his journey to where he is now. He grew up as a novice monk in Mae Chaem, but moved to Chiang Mai as a young adult to work as tour guide to improve his English and make some money. Upon his return to Mae Chaem, he used his earnings to help develop the local temple for his community because the temple they had been using was much too far and many of the elderly people could not make the trip. Burm struck us as an incredibly humble man who was passionate about his village and preserving culture and the environment.
After we had returned to BEES and planted the trees, Burm and his 19 year old cousin Em (who also works at BEES) invited us to go play soccer with some of the local kids. We agreed, and he suggested we jog there! It was about 2 km, but because of the crazy humidity we were both drenched by the time we got there. Once we got to the temple, about 15 teennage boys arrived on their motorbikes. We played BEES sanctuary vs everyone else, which was about 5 vs 15. Kylie was the only girl! And she definitely surprised some of the guys by just showing up. We played until sundown, and then ran home to a delicious dinner. We passed out by 8:30 pm shortly afterwards. Hands down the best day of our trip so far.
A quick note from Ky on the elephant-mahout relationship: Traditionally, elephants were put to work in the logging industry. However in 1989 logging was banned forcing approximately 3,000 elephants to work in the tourism industry. Since then, there has been a growing demand for elephant entertainment in the tourism industry. Many mahouts lack proper training and become a mahout as they believe it can be a relatively easy way to pay the bills – give commands, give punishment if the commands are followed, train the elephant to fear the consequences if they don’t listen to a command. Common training tools are the use of bullhooks, whips, metal rods and machetes. Much of this ‘training’ happens when tourists aren’t around so when they are, just the mere presence of the mahout is terrifying enough for the elephant to listen to the command. If an elephant doesn’t listen and the mahout doesn’t follow through with a punishment, it jeapordizes the future safety of the mahout and tourists. Currently in the tourism industry, mahouts are experiencing low pay for a high-risk job with many suffering injuries and having little financial security. Unfortunately the death toll of mahout’s is higher than we care to share. Even with this knowledge, many companies still advertise riding, brushing, hand-feeding and bathing which all require a lot of training. These are not intuitive activities for the elephants to preform, especially with tourists being involved. Elephants are much safer and happier when theyβre not in direct contact with tourists. This also makes life safer for mahouts who do not have to resort to cruel methods to control them. Alternatively at BEES, mahouts do not even carry training tools and tourists are strictly prohibited from touching the elephants. The mahout’s are only using voice commands and positive reinforcement (i.e. high reward treats) to guide the elephants home from the jungle at the end of each day. At BEEs the elephants are are actually given a choice. They can choose whether they want to listen or not which can make for some funny arguments between the mahout and elephant.
SECOND FULL DAY
On our second day, we were put to work. We woke up at 7am, pet some of the pups, and sipped our coffee with the kitties in the cafe.
Ollie!Shadow! Her and Ollie are BFFs and owned by the mahouts.Buddy (one of our faves), the 3-legged 1-eyed pirate dog. Morning routine ft. Jaja (left) and Lucky (the one in my lap)Oh and we couldn’t forget to give some attention to the kiddos! Here’s Ky playing digger with little Leo and Tee
Instead of following the elephants, we worked on some odd jobs. We started by shovelling elephant poop into wheelbarrows and filling up pee-spots (which were mini lakes) with fresh sand. Then, we started collected big rocks in the river and stacking them across a section of the river. The past rainy season caused excessive flooding like BEES has not seen before, and knocked down their water barrier which helps to control flow so the elephant paddocks do not flood. We worked for a few hours just moving rocks, until bags of cement mix showed up. We mixed cement with sand and water from the river and created an assembly line to pass buckets of cement to pour over the rock wall we had built. Everyone at BEES (except for the mahouts) was helping. This wall has been rebuilt 2-3 times a year, but Burm thinks that the wall we assisted in building should last at least 8 months!
Kylie and Burn discussing building strategies. Behind them is the wall we built.
During the wall building, the employees took urns scavenging for river goodies, I.e. Fish, crab, and eel. Kylie, much to her chagrin, turned out to be an excellent river harvester and found multiple crabs and one palm sized eel! All catches were placed into bamboo baskets and cooked into a stew for lunch.
Taking 5
While we were taking a short break and waiting for more cement, Matt noticed out of the corner of his eye a 4.5 ft long snake slithering along the riverbank! We think we had taken a rock that was covering its den and had disturbed it. Matt pointed it out, all of the women (except for Kylie) ran screaming their heads off and got as far away as possible. Matt grabbed his camera and got closer. Burm and Em grabbed sticks of bamboo, and expertly pinned it against the sandbank just below its head. Once it was immbolized, Burm grabbed it with his bare hands and Em proceed to try and trigge the snake to bite the bamboo to see if it was venomous. The snake did not try to strike and its teeth were fairly small and slow to come out, leading us to believe it was not very dangerous but no one wanted to take that chance! Burm put it into a plastic bag, and we drove it 20 minutes away from BEES and released it.
The ssssnake.Burm and Em assessing the snake.
Upon return, we feasted on lunch. The staff ate lunch with us that day, and it felt special; it felt like we were part of their community. It was also CRAZY spicy, even Got was sweating while eating. But spicy = strong, and that’s what needed for a day of hard work.
Veg Pad Thai (left) and spicy river critter medley (right)
After lunch, we had about an hour of free time. Most of the staff took naps, Matt looked for bugs, and Kylie pet the cats. We returned after lunch and were told to prepare elephant treats, which we were professionals at by now.
Before dinner, Burm toured us around the village – he took us to some of his favourite spots, including a look out of Mae Chaem, a pond, a natural spring, and finally, to get some delicious street roti! It was completely different from the roti we are used to back home – it is essentially a crepe with egg, super sweet and oily, and melt in your mouth delicious!
Mae ChaemMatt talking with Burm and his son LeoHappy (and sweaty)
That evening, we had our last dinner with Chrissy and retired to the kitty cafe. Just when we thought the fun was over… Tan emerged with his bin of rhinoceros beetles!
Tan and his beetles.Male rhinoceros beetle
The next hour proceed to be one of the coolest experiences of the trip. Tan and Em demonstrated a beetle fighting tournament. Tan uses a large piece of bamboo specifically carved for beetle fighting. In the middle, there is an enclosure for a female beetle to sit. There is a small window on the outside of the bamboo where the males can detect her. Each ‘fighter’ palaces their beetle on the bamboo, and the fight is initiated. Each fighter has a small wooden cycliinder they use to rub along the bamboo and along the beetles to stimulate them to ‘fight.’ The beetles then attempt to throw each other off of the bamboo to try and ‘win’ rights to the female beetle. No beetles are really injured in these fights, as their strong exoskeletons protect them as they fall off the log. As the night progressed, local boys showed up to come watch.
After the beetle excitement, Kylie returned to our sleeping quarters while Matt scoured the grounds for some night collecting of bugs. He was called over by Got, who asked if he wanted to try something specialβ¦ Thai whiskey! Aka not whiskey at all, but moonshine! Got invited Matt to Tan’s property, where he sat down with Tan’s wife and Got to participate in what can only be described as a Thai drinking challenge. After a couple of drinks, Tan appeared with another special treat for Matt – it was a wasps nest he had harvested earlier that day and had smoked for Matt to eat. (Matt here) – I immediately thought that Kylie would be upset if she missed this opportunity to drink Thai whiskey and eat wasp larvae under the stars, so I ran and got her out of bed to come and join us. As we peeled away the wasp nest to get at the larvae, our eyes widened and we were SO surprised at the delicious, savoury hickey flavour that filled our mouths upon consuming the larvae. SO GOOD, like actually incredibly tasty.
The wasp nest.Wasp larvae! So tasty MMM.
The more we drank and ate, the more we got to know Got and Tan’s wife (whose name eludes us). Even though she could not speak English, we were all able to communicate (especially with some translating from Got), and it felt like we were able to really get to know Got and a friendship was actuallly developed. By the end of the night, Kylie had been offered handfuls of fresh garlic after the moonshine was finished and Tan’s wife noticed her garlic tattoo. We then stumbled off to bed.
LAST DAY AT BEES
Feeling a little bit hungover, we woke up early to watch the elephant training done by Chrissy and Emily. Chrissy runs a non-profit organization to provide positive reinforcement training for captive and retired elephants in an attempt to move away from the traditional abusive methods of training. Chrissy was currently working on having the elephant ladies lift their front foot up one at a time to prop onto the bars of their paddock, exposing the entire bottom of their foot. This is a very important behaviour for elephants to learn because it allows veterinarians access to their feet in a relatively stress-free manner. Foot infection and disease is a leading cause of death for captive elephants. Infections can quickly spread up the leg and reduce mobility, and if elephants can not graze, they will likely die. Elephants require 300 – 400 pounds of food a day, so an injured foot is literally life or death for an elephant.
After training, we packed up our gear, said our goodbyes (Kylie cried), and Burm and Emily drove us to the bus station in China Mai. We were JUST on time to catch the next bus to Chiang Rai.
It is hard to put into words how much of an impact our time at BEES had on us! It not only taught us so much about elephants, but it taught us a lot about the way of life for a small village in Thailand. We were very fortunate to have such accommodating hosts, and were extremely lucky that we were the only tourists there for this week, which definitely personalized our experience a bit. We hope to return here one day, and would strongly recommend anyone travelling through Chiang Mai to spend a few days at BEES. This may have been the most genuine and enriching experience we’ll get on this trip. The money we paid ($300 each) went directly towards paying the staff who are responsible for us and the elephants. It felt like a home away from home, and we wish BEES luck in the future.
A rare shot of us together on the drive back to Chiang Mai
What a breath of fresh air! Seriously though. The air quality was noticeably much better than in Bangkok. We arrived into Chiang Mai at 6am after a 10hr night bus from Bangkok. My first night bus experience wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be! We got a few little snacks, a neck pillow and a blanket which was a pleasant surprise. For me, the hardest part of the night bus experience was trying to get comfy enough to sleep, the chairs hardly reclined and leg room was non-existent. Not an easy task. Eventually though, I did manage to drift off and when I woke the sun was beginning to peak over the mountain tops and we were close.
Bus snacks included butter stuffed vanilla waffers and a chocolate twinkie-like roll.
We check into the Eurana Hotel for our first night. Yes, that’s right, we finally splurged on our first hotel stay of the trip for a whopping $22 a night. They let us check-in early and we immediately b-lined it straight for the rooftop pool. We swam and lounged by the pool for most of the day, trying to recover from the overnight bus trip. Then, we spent our first evening in Old Town Chiang Mai walking around their famous Sunday night market. Every Sunday night the main roads are shut down and local vendors take to the streets selling handmade trinkets, clothing, jewlery, and (my personal favourite) homemade local food.
Old Town is anywhere inside the square of water in the center of the map
Over the course of the evening, I spent about 65Bhat (approx. $3) on food and tried a handful of mouth watering dishes. Sushi, deep-fried banana and vegetarian dumplings were a few of my favs π. Mmm I’m salivating just thinking about it! Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures of the street food but I DID remember to snap a pic of an amazing lunch Matt and I had while in Old Town. We went to a local vegetarian restaurant called ‘Taste From Heaven’. It was unreal…
Matt ordered the Kaho Soi – a traditional dish only found in Northern Thailand (top) and I ordered a pumpkin curry with a side of purple rice – another popular local dish (bottom)
On our second day in Chiang Mai we woke up early and went for a hike. I had heard of a few great hikes around the city and really wanted to do one. We settled on the Monk’s Trail, a moderate 8km hike up Doi Suthep (doi translates to mountain). Within the first few minutes of the hike, both Matt and I were drenched in sweat and breathing heavy. Hiking in the jungle is definitely different from hiking at home which I wasn’t expecting. The trail was quite steep and we gained elevation quickly.
About 4km into the hike we came to the first point of interest, Wat Pha Lat (Wat translates to temple).
First glimpse of Chiang Mai from Wat Pha Lat Matt enjoying the shadeStumbled across a serpent staircase and I couldn’t resist slithering down it π
A noteworthy point about the hike: As we trekked along, I kept noticing orange pieces of fabric tied to a lot of the trees beside the trail. This sparked my interest because at first I thought they were just trail markers but as we went along, there were just too many of them for that to be the case. I knew they must mean something and it became my mission for the day to find out why. Later I was informed that the Monk’s were the ones tieing them to the trees! Orange bands meant that the trees were off limits so to speak. It’s thought that if a tree has an orange band, it will bring bad luck to whoever dares to cut it down. He then went on to explain that there are few people who would cut down a marked tree because if they did, they would be cursed by evil spirits. As a result, the orange bands have become a tool for forest conservation. I found the whole ritual intriguing and beautiful. Since the hike, I’ve noticed these sacred trees all over the place! Good work Monks π§‘
We nearly made it to the top of the hike when we started running low on water and snacks. Not ideal, so we ended up making the call to turn back around at the 7.5km marker. We didn’t want to run the risk of getting caught without food or water as we were quickly feeling the effects of the heat and the elevation. Overall it took us about 4.5hrs round trip. We also had to make it back to the Eurana Hotel for check-out at noon.
We stayed in a more affordable accommodation for the next 2 nights – the Smile Robotist hostel. After some much needed chilling in our air-conditioned, 6-person dormitory, we decided to mission up Doi Suthep again, but this time by car. We made it to the top in just under 20 minutes. Driving is definitely the more popular option and now I can see why. We explored the top of the Monks trial which is home to Doi Suithep Temple. It was definitely worth a second go around as it had great view of Chiang Mai.
Views from the top of Doi Suithep Temple
It was neat to explore the temple however one thing that bothered me was how our fellow travellers weren’t abiding by the standard dress code of temples. Temples require knees and shoulders to be covered yet to my dismay, there were thighs and shoulders everywhere!! I found it ignorant on the part of my fellow travellers, especially since there were local vendors everywhere outside of the temple selling sarongs and long pants. I left feeling a little discouraged. The temple really wasn’t asking for alot and as visitors, I strongly feel we should make an effort to be respectful. It’s not hard. Anyhow, I guess the take away is that it’s important to learn about and in turn, respect the local culture of the places we travel. Live and learn…
On our final full day in Old Town Chiang Mai we visited Doi Inthanon National Park which is home to the tallest mountain in Thailand. The park is 2hrs from Chiang Mai but well worth the trek, and the 300Baht per person entrance fee. We picked a sunny and clear day so the views were unreal.
Doi Inthanon is home to a variety of ecosystems, the top being a cloud forest. We stopped quite a bit along the 36km road to the top.
Our first time seeing rice fields up close We found a secluded spot to pull off, look for bugs and take in the viewHere I saw MY first cool find of the trip – This is a Popillia species of scarab beetle (closely related to the Japanese beetle we have at home) Another beauty we spotted – This is an Amata species of tiger moth.
We also stopped at a waterfall
Wachirathan WaterfallMatt caught a glimpse of a double rainbow, he was pretty stoked!
Our 3 days and 3 nights in Old Town Chiang Mai were absolutely amazing. I know it may be too soon to say but…this has been my favourite city of the trip so far βΊοΈ
Also, Matt and I have been working hard on a collaborative post about our experience volunteering with elephants in rural Chiang Mai. Check back soon for more adventures!
I’m not much of a city gal so I was quite nervous when we first arrived. My first full day in the city is one I don’t think I’ll soon forget. Having woken up at 4:30am to that slightly panicked feeling of ‘where am I?’ I was feeling very aware of how new my surroundings were. My head space going into the first day in Bangkok was a concoction of emotions ranging from pretty overwhelmed, very jetlagged, excited and slightly claustrophobic. Everything was new and it was really starting to set in…I’m not in Kansas (or rather Guelph) anymore. It was then that I experienced my first pain of homesickness. Funny, I couldn’t quite place what the feeling was at first; the last time that I felt homesick was first year university (and I’ve tried desperately for years to bury that phase in my life). Fortunately, I’m traveling with one of the most compassionate and caring people I know and once I opened up to him about my apprehensions he listened to me and reminded me that we’re in this together. With that in mind and a much needed cup of coffee in my belly I began to loosen up.
My first impression of the Bangkok was that it was quite chaotic and after spending 3 nights and 3 days in the city, I stand firm on that. To my surprise, getting around the city was fairly simple. Bangkok has a SkyTrain which we used to travel from our first hostel (near the airport) into downtown. We took our first tuk tuk ride to our hostel near Khaosan Rd and payed 200bhat (about 10$) for a 8km ride…we would later find out that there were much cheaper modes of transportation, such as the good ol’ city bus for between 8-20 baht!
On our first tuk tuk ride
We really enjoyed our second hostel called ‘Baan Nampetch’ as it was quiet, in close proximity to Khaosan Rd and the host (Jay) was delightful. He gave us very useful tips to navigate the city such as how to get around using the buses and how to avoid local scams. For example, he mention that locals may try and scam tourists by telling them that major temples (such as the Grand Palace) are closed. This piece of advice came in handy we were able to avoid being swept away by an overly friendly local who wanted be our tour guide and his buddy our own personal Tuk Tuk driver for only 40 Bhat. We quickly learned that if it sounds too good to be true, it probably IS (good advice mom)! Good thing Matt was on his game, saw right through this scam and politely yet firmly declined.
Enjoying a quiet morning on the balcony of the hostel
We spent most of our days walking around and getting to know our neighbourhood, stopping at local convenience stores and restaurants and petting any and all street cats (well that last one was mostly just me π).
Other highlights from Bangkok include:
Enjoying a refreshing Thai milk tea and walking the Jatujuk marketThe FREE insectarium & butterfly garden located within the lovely Wachirabenchathat ParkVisiting the National Museum of Bangkok where we learned about the first Emperor of China, King Qin and the Terracotta army.
All in all, Bangkok was beautiful and we had a lot of fun however we both agree that it’s time to move on. We’re both looking forward to some much needed fresh air and getting closer to nature. Check back soon for more updates on our latest adventures!